From Chemical Composition To Fabric Characteristics And Spinning Methods

Let's talk about polyester first. Polyester is the simplest of the three major synthetic fibers, and it is also the earliest fiber to be used. The earliest commercialized fabric was the "Que Liang" that was common in the last century (Que Liang is because polyester itself does not absorb water. In summer, clothes can easily dissipate heat and are indeed very cool). It is based on polyterephthalic acid (PTA) or dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) and ethylene glycol (EG).

It is a fiber-forming polymer polyethylene terephthalate (PET) obtained by esterification or transesterification and polycondensation reaction of raw materials. Of course, this is only its chemical composition a, and it is still some distance away from being made into clothing. Then this polymer is ejected through the spinning hole in a molten state and spun into single fibers a, and then these fibers are coated with textile auxiliaries. , twisting, doubling and other post-processing processes to obtain spinnable yarn, and then the weaving and garment stages.

In fact, these processes are very important for chemical fibers. Generally speaking, they are all similar, maybe the spinning method is different or the post-processing process is different, etc. The advantages of polyester are: good strength, good light resistance, good elasticity, corrosion resistance, wear resistance, and good thermoplasticity. The disadvantages are also obvious: poor dyeability and poor hygroscopicity (of course, many quick-drying sportswear now generally uses polyester to take advantage of this feature).

There are so many types of fiber spinning methods: .
1. Undrawn yarn (conventional spinning) (UDY), semi-preoriented yarn Q (medium-speed spinning) (MOY), pre-oriented yarn (high-speed spinning) (POY), yarn Q (ultra-high-speed spinning) (HOY).
2. Drawn yarn: Drawn yarn (low-speed drawn yarn) (DY), fully drawn yarn (one-step spinning and drawing method (FDY), Q (one-step spinning method) (FOY).
3. Textured yarn: conventional textured yarn (TY), drawn textured yarn Q (DTY), air-shaped yarn (ATY).

Spinning should belong to the category of materials science and will not be discussed here. The differences caused by the above-mentioned spinning methods include differences in fiber physical properties such as fiber lightness and fiber interface, fiber curl degree, etc. This difference in fiber properties will ultimately affect the feel and wear of the fabric. For example: polyester imitation silk fabric is made of polyester filament or short fiber yarn with round and special-shaped cross-sections.

Woven with a silk look. Using fine denier 9 or ultra-fine denier polyester fiber as raw material, it is specially processed to form a fine short-pile polyester fabric on the fabric base fabric, which can make a fabric with imitation leather effect. Common varieties of polyester fabrics include: pongee, lightweight, georgette, Oxford, spring and autumn denim, Huayao, satin, grosgrain, Georgette, Shumei, washed velvet, cardan velvet, and suede. Leather Q; canvas; rich velvet; chiffon; high silk treasure; Zuo Ma 9, etc.